We start a new decade in make-up where the future doesn't look just orange, but a multitude of other shades. Irene Barros looks at the S/S '10 catwalks to discover the new colour
The world wants colour and this is exactly what this trend is all about. Just like a ray of sunlight through stained glass, colour has a transparency and plumpness not seen in previous decades. From strong pastels to bleached neons and even country florals, it's based on a juicy cocktail-hour palette of coral, peach, violet, pink and even champagne. 'It's about optimistic, upbeat shades applied with the lightest touch that looks airbrushed with the softest edges,' says director of make-up artistry at MAC Cosmetics, Terry Barber. 'It's taking pretty colours and giving them a rebellious edge so that they don't come across as too bridal,' he adds.
The key is to enhance one or two elements, keeping beauty economical, clean and uncluttered: eye colour seamlessly airbrushed onto the cheeks and nothing else, an unexpected lip palette on a scrubbed face, tea-stained eyes and lips, vivid eyeshadows from the lash line to almost-bleached brows and so forth.
It's a trend that seems designed for black skin with its use of vivid colour and what makes it contemporary is to blend it as if there is no tomorrow.
SEEN IN: Ashish, Vena Cava, Marni, Karl Lagerfeld, Nanette Lepore.
TRY: Lipstick Queen Opaque Lipstick in Coral Sinner (£15), Max Factor Colour Perfection Duo Eyeshadow in Sunset Mood (£6.49), Clinique High Lengths Mascara in Black (£14.50), Guerlain 4 Shades in 408 (£36), Guerlain KissKiss Strass Crystal Shine (£20), YSL Sheer Sensual Gloss Stick in 7 and 8 (£20 each).
Heart of Americana
The title says it all. Think West Coast surfer girls after a day on the beach, yearbook lovelies and varsity pin-ups; that all- American wholesomeness best impersonated in Eighties icons such as Brooke Shields. The references are classic sportswear and Sport's Illustrated cover girls and a military palette taken out of Seventies TV shows such as M.A.S.H, with all shades of brown, tan, bronze, olive, khaki and butterscotch, but always with a weathered element to it. It's the perfect trend to enhance black skin's natural beauty. Imagine the skin glow and duskiness of a girl that's been hanging out in the desert all day, with a translucent youthfulness and health-plumped finish. Buffed skin and weathered deep brown blushes are your best allies to achieve this look, which you can combine with a street element such as false individual eyelashes or a 3D dirty tobacco lip.
SEEN IN: Balmain, Alexander Wang, Bluemarine, Chlo, Costume National.
TRY: Chanel Quadra Eyeshadow in Kaska Beige (£34), Clinique Instant Lift for Brows in Deep Brown (£12.50), Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Underground (£10), Clinique Fresh-Picked Eyeshadow in Pear (£18.50).
After the excess of previous seasons, we're back to what could be described as simple tailoring in make-up. Un-made faces with structure are carefully highlighted with creams and glosses, and even a masculine approach to grooming, where the line between what's supposed to be male and female blurs. It's what Terry Barber cleverly calls 'handsome girls and beautiful boys.'
The palette is fragile and that of a woman who doesn't want to make a statement. Think oyster and flesh-coloured hues seamlessly blended with an otherworldly waxiness to the skin and perfectly conditioned lips, which are occasionally erased.
Bleached eyebrows are the 'it' trend within the trend, as they completely change the structure of the face, but if you're hesitant about going all the way (i.e. like Chanel Iman at Bottega Veneta), you could have them lightened just a couple of hair shades -- try covering them with thick foundation to see what the final effect would look like. Otherwise, opt for simple grooming and just comb them without adding colour.
SEEN IN: Kenzo, Erdem, Alberta Ferretti, Missoni, Bruno Pieters, Gaspard Yurkievich, Nathan Jenden.
TRY: MAC Face and Body Foundation (£23), Dior Crme de Rose Smoothing Plumping Lip Balm SPF10 (£19), Chanel Nail Colour in 503, 505 and 507 (£16 each), MAC Plush Lash Mascara in Brownette (£12.50), Dior 5-Colour Eyeshadow in 743 Coquette (£39), YSL Eye Shadow Duo in 25 (£26), YSL Palette Y-Mail Face Highlighter (£35).
The Velvet Underground
Some of the key inspirations for this futuristic trend that blended urban references with the fantasy of fashion designers were deeply rooted in science fiction and cartoons. From completely airbrushed skin in grey and models turned into aliens to impossibly red lips completely pushed to the limit. Think mannequins, human hybrids and real-life Sixties cartoon heroines. It's not a trend to rock everyday, but borrowing some of its elements can take your night or party make-up to unexpected heights.
Forget about pre set lip palette ideas and go for a khaki yellow mouth (like the 'Mickey Mouse on safari' reference seen at Iceberg) and sport illogic nails that don't match the rest of your make-up or clothing. Eyeliner also becomes cartoonish and graphic, creating square and rectangular shapes where you would normally paint a flicked line. Just remember to pick one product and one element on the face and focus solely on that, keeping everything else minimal to avoid looking like a caricature.
SEEN IN: Alexander McQueen, Antonio Berardi, Gareth Pugh, Giles Deacon, Emanuel Ungaro.
TRY: MAC Chromaline in Black Black and Cyan (£12.50 each), M.A.C Lipstick in Russian Red (£12.50), MAC Penultimate Eye Liner in RapidBlack (£13.50), MAC Lipmix in Blue (£9), MAC Glitter in Pink (£15), MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating (£12.50), Dior Long-Wearing Nail Lacquer in 604 Silver Pearl (£16.50).
(Black Beauty & Hair April/ May 2010)